Fuji Challenge
I climbed Mt. Fuji yesterday!
view from the top
this entry is long, so only read if bored and have no where to be. otherwise just look at my pretty pictures.
After Tateyama I thought of maybe backing out of the Mt Fuji climb I was signed up for with A-JET. Climbing a bigger, colder mountain 2 days after Mt. Tate did not seem at all appealing.
But when I woke up on Thursday morning feeling much less sore than what I was expecting, I decided to reconsider.
I was incredibly ill prepared- no winter clothing whatsoever (not even a long sleeve), no coats, good shoes, natta... So I went shopping and spent over 300 dollars on stuff to bring up including new sneakers, a wind breaker, and oxygen. I borrowed winter/climbing stuff from Danielle, Ivy, Dan, and Chiara as well (thank you!). I packed myself a few bentos, rice balls, and snacks, and some Pacari Sweat (Japanese Gatorade). My pack was heavy but I was thankful for it all later.
As some of you have read from my previous journal, this is not my first time ON Fuji. Last July 2005 IES took us all up to the 5th station but we were not allowed to actually climb for liability reasons. Entry here 4th one down.
Most people climb Fuji all night, and arrive at the top by sunrise. This is what we did. The bus ride left Toyama City at 8:30am Saturday so I had to be up at 6am to catch the train from Fukumitsu. I had only gotten 4hrs of sleep after dance rehearsal in Kamitaira Friday night- I'll save that for a later entry.
The bus ride from Toyama to Fuji (coast to coast) was a little over 5 hours long with breaks. I really tried to sleep on the bus but couldn't for some reason. Maybe it was the free coffee.
There are 9 stations on Mt Fuji. Most people disembark from station 5 (where I was a tourist with IES last year). When we got to station 5 it was still late afternoon, so we burned some time getting dinner and browsing the overpriced souvenir shops.
People began leaving in small groups around 7pm. We left around 8pm, knowing that if we went too early we'd end up freezing cold at the top waiting for sunrise. At station 5 I was already pretty cold so I had on all my layers, but as we started climbing I got hot really fast and shed everything but my 1st layer.
just before starting the climb
The first hour was just steep rocky path similar to Tateyama, but then as we climbed toward station 6 it became serious climbing. I couldn't take any pictures the entire way up because it was pitch black- the only thing lighting the way up was our headlamps. Francois and I flew up the mountain ("like a roller coaster") until station 7 when we realized we were 4 hours ahead of schedule. On the way up we passed the two other JET groups that left station 5 an hour ahead of us. We sat around hydrating and snacking for an hour or so before continuing on to station 8.
The stations were really convoluted- we would climb for 20-30 min and would think we were at the next station, but really it was like station 8.25 or 8.5. Quite discouraging really. And they're not like indoor souvenir shops either. They're little hut things with open tatami rooms that you have to pay 60 BUCKS just to enter. Needless to say we did not go indoors once the whole way up, but I was seriously tempted at station 7 when it was raining and cold.
By that time Amanda had raced up and was climbing with us and we joined many other small groups as we got higher. At 8 we were miserable. It was raining, my clothes and bag were soaked through (my raincoat was not waterproof !?) and it was COLD. For awhile I was violently shivering. Amanda, Francois an I forked out 5 dollars for bitty dixie cups of hot cocoa.
We stood at station 8-point-whatever for a good hour in the rain, when a couple of brilliant JETs had the idea of taking BC's tarp and pulling it over one of the benches to make a sorta makeshift tent. We crammed about 7 of us under there and spent another hour just huddling over trying to keep warm. I guess we looked pretty funny from the outside, 'cause a bunch of Japanese people kept kicking and poking BC who was lying at our feet. Someone actually put their stuff on top of the tarp not knowing people were inside it :D
Abby, me, Amanda, cold wet and smiling
Once the rain let up we folded up the tarp and kept going. This part I don't remember very well, just that it was wet, dark, and long. We climbed and climbed and when you looked up at the people way up ahead it seemed like the top would never come. We completely bypassed station 9 and kept trekking, wanting to make it on time. But once we were only 2 hours from the top we hit a massive tour group of old people being led by a tour guide who had to check 'n double check every freakin' step. There were some points where we were balancing awkwardly on a rock for over a minute waiting for the old people to go on. This seriously put us behind schedule. We couldn't even pass 'em since the dangerous parts of the mountain were blocked off by ropes.
During those 2 hours we only breaked once. We passed around the oxygen cans and ate and drank. By this time it was already 3am abouts. I was past noticing how sore I was and was just trying to concentrate on staying awake. The food helped a lot.
By 4am we were getting pretty anxious. Sunrise was 4:30 and at the rate the old people were going we were definitely not gunna make it. And then about twenty minutes from the top, all a sudden everything was lit up with light. We were so close!! Fortunately we were high enough that we had ascended above the clouds and could see the first rays of sunlight as well as if at the peak. A bunch of us stopped to take pictures and gape. The view was AMAZING, and pictures cannot do it justice (especially mine).
big wet clouds kept obstructing our view. But the moments when they passed you could see what seemed like a never-ending sea of pink clouds.
We were able to reach the top before the actual sun appeared, and parked ourselves on a little terrace of rock to watch the show. My roommate from Tokyo orientation was with us the climb up, who joined us from Nagano and it was her birthday! So we had a surprise celebration with cakes and candles and sang happy birthday at the top of Mt Fuji. BC carried a bottle of wine with him all the way up the mountain so we got to celebrate with class.
Francois, me, and Amanda at the top of Mount Fuji.
At the top there really isn't much. Just some more souvenirs and bathrooms. We were eager to get back down so we didn't stay long.
starting the descent
The entire descent is a dirt/rock path that zigzags all the way down at a really steep incline. After only half an hour your toes and knees start to hurt (on top of everything else from the ascent!). On the way down we booked it and were able to make the descent in only 2 and 1/2 hours! We were told it would take 3-5 hours :P
When we reached station 5 it felt as if the past 12 and 1/2 hours were a dream. We had left at 8pm, reached the top at 5am, and finished at 8:30am. We threw down our stuff on the ground and after buying some omiyage, found a comfy rock (or in amandas case the ground) and fell immediately asleep.
Our we-made-it photo taken right before napping.
While walking around the station buying omiyage there were fresh, clean, happy looking tourists just arriving. Our hair was soaked from walking through clouds for 2 hours and our clothes were covered in dirt.
The bus didn't depart until 1pm so we just snoozed. Ride back was over 7 hours, then another 1 1/2 hour train ride from Toyama city to Fukumitsu. My legs were so stiff when I pulled in to the station that I could barely mount my bike for the ride to the house. I reached home at 10:30pm, showered, and crashed.
Still seems like a dream. Now I'm back at work.
this entry took me two hours! I'm starving~
view from the top
this entry is long, so only read if bored and have no where to be. otherwise just look at my pretty pictures.
After Tateyama I thought of maybe backing out of the Mt Fuji climb I was signed up for with A-JET. Climbing a bigger, colder mountain 2 days after Mt. Tate did not seem at all appealing.
But when I woke up on Thursday morning feeling much less sore than what I was expecting, I decided to reconsider.
I was incredibly ill prepared- no winter clothing whatsoever (not even a long sleeve), no coats, good shoes, natta... So I went shopping and spent over 300 dollars on stuff to bring up including new sneakers, a wind breaker, and oxygen. I borrowed winter/climbing stuff from Danielle, Ivy, Dan, and Chiara as well (thank you!). I packed myself a few bentos, rice balls, and snacks, and some Pacari Sweat (Japanese Gatorade). My pack was heavy but I was thankful for it all later.
As some of you have read from my previous journal, this is not my first time ON Fuji. Last July 2005 IES took us all up to the 5th station but we were not allowed to actually climb for liability reasons. Entry here 4th one down.
Most people climb Fuji all night, and arrive at the top by sunrise. This is what we did. The bus ride left Toyama City at 8:30am Saturday so I had to be up at 6am to catch the train from Fukumitsu. I had only gotten 4hrs of sleep after dance rehearsal in Kamitaira Friday night- I'll save that for a later entry.
The bus ride from Toyama to Fuji (coast to coast) was a little over 5 hours long with breaks. I really tried to sleep on the bus but couldn't for some reason. Maybe it was the free coffee.
There are 9 stations on Mt Fuji. Most people disembark from station 5 (where I was a tourist with IES last year). When we got to station 5 it was still late afternoon, so we burned some time getting dinner and browsing the overpriced souvenir shops.
People began leaving in small groups around 7pm. We left around 8pm, knowing that if we went too early we'd end up freezing cold at the top waiting for sunrise. At station 5 I was already pretty cold so I had on all my layers, but as we started climbing I got hot really fast and shed everything but my 1st layer.
just before starting the climb
The first hour was just steep rocky path similar to Tateyama, but then as we climbed toward station 6 it became serious climbing. I couldn't take any pictures the entire way up because it was pitch black- the only thing lighting the way up was our headlamps. Francois and I flew up the mountain ("like a roller coaster") until station 7 when we realized we were 4 hours ahead of schedule. On the way up we passed the two other JET groups that left station 5 an hour ahead of us. We sat around hydrating and snacking for an hour or so before continuing on to station 8.
The stations were really convoluted- we would climb for 20-30 min and would think we were at the next station, but really it was like station 8.25 or 8.5. Quite discouraging really. And they're not like indoor souvenir shops either. They're little hut things with open tatami rooms that you have to pay 60 BUCKS just to enter. Needless to say we did not go indoors once the whole way up, but I was seriously tempted at station 7 when it was raining and cold.
By that time Amanda had raced up and was climbing with us and we joined many other small groups as we got higher. At 8 we were miserable. It was raining, my clothes and bag were soaked through (my raincoat was not waterproof !?) and it was COLD. For awhile I was violently shivering. Amanda, Francois an I forked out 5 dollars for bitty dixie cups of hot cocoa.
We stood at station 8-point-whatever for a good hour in the rain, when a couple of brilliant JETs had the idea of taking BC's tarp and pulling it over one of the benches to make a sorta makeshift tent. We crammed about 7 of us under there and spent another hour just huddling over trying to keep warm. I guess we looked pretty funny from the outside, 'cause a bunch of Japanese people kept kicking and poking BC who was lying at our feet. Someone actually put their stuff on top of the tarp not knowing people were inside it :D
Abby, me, Amanda, cold wet and smiling
Once the rain let up we folded up the tarp and kept going. This part I don't remember very well, just that it was wet, dark, and long. We climbed and climbed and when you looked up at the people way up ahead it seemed like the top would never come. We completely bypassed station 9 and kept trekking, wanting to make it on time. But once we were only 2 hours from the top we hit a massive tour group of old people being led by a tour guide who had to check 'n double check every freakin' step. There were some points where we were balancing awkwardly on a rock for over a minute waiting for the old people to go on. This seriously put us behind schedule. We couldn't even pass 'em since the dangerous parts of the mountain were blocked off by ropes.
During those 2 hours we only breaked once. We passed around the oxygen cans and ate and drank. By this time it was already 3am abouts. I was past noticing how sore I was and was just trying to concentrate on staying awake. The food helped a lot.
By 4am we were getting pretty anxious. Sunrise was 4:30 and at the rate the old people were going we were definitely not gunna make it. And then about twenty minutes from the top, all a sudden everything was lit up with light. We were so close!! Fortunately we were high enough that we had ascended above the clouds and could see the first rays of sunlight as well as if at the peak. A bunch of us stopped to take pictures and gape. The view was AMAZING, and pictures cannot do it justice (especially mine).
big wet clouds kept obstructing our view. But the moments when they passed you could see what seemed like a never-ending sea of pink clouds.
We were able to reach the top before the actual sun appeared, and parked ourselves on a little terrace of rock to watch the show. My roommate from Tokyo orientation was with us the climb up, who joined us from Nagano and it was her birthday! So we had a surprise celebration with cakes and candles and sang happy birthday at the top of Mt Fuji. BC carried a bottle of wine with him all the way up the mountain so we got to celebrate with class.
Francois, me, and Amanda at the top of Mount Fuji.
At the top there really isn't much. Just some more souvenirs and bathrooms. We were eager to get back down so we didn't stay long.
starting the descent
The entire descent is a dirt/rock path that zigzags all the way down at a really steep incline. After only half an hour your toes and knees start to hurt (on top of everything else from the ascent!). On the way down we booked it and were able to make the descent in only 2 and 1/2 hours! We were told it would take 3-5 hours :P
When we reached station 5 it felt as if the past 12 and 1/2 hours were a dream. We had left at 8pm, reached the top at 5am, and finished at 8:30am. We threw down our stuff on the ground and after buying some omiyage, found a comfy rock (or in amandas case the ground) and fell immediately asleep.
Our we-made-it photo taken right before napping.
While walking around the station buying omiyage there were fresh, clean, happy looking tourists just arriving. Our hair was soaked from walking through clouds for 2 hours and our clothes were covered in dirt.
The bus didn't depart until 1pm so we just snoozed. Ride back was over 7 hours, then another 1 1/2 hour train ride from Toyama city to Fukumitsu. My legs were so stiff when I pulled in to the station that I could barely mount my bike for the ride to the house. I reached home at 10:30pm, showered, and crashed.
Still seems like a dream. Now I'm back at work.
this entry took me two hours! I'm starving~
Comments
I am in pretty good shape, work out about 4 or so days a week but I am not a climber or hiker or anything of the sort. Do you think this trip is possible for a person like me? No experience?
Also, I am planning to go to Japan alone though I'll be meeting friends there. Not sure if they would like to do the climb. Would it be recommended to go alone?
Any comments or feedback would be greatly appreciated! Thanks :)
Glad my blog was helpful. If you're in good shape you shouldn't have any problem with Fuji-san. I hadn't worked out all summer when I did the climb- it just about killed me but I managed. Just get lots of rest before you go up and bring tons of fluids. It weighs a lot at first but it's worth it since they charge ridiculous prices for any drinks at the stations. And make sure you bring sufficiently warm/water-proof clothing. Can't stress that enough!
The climb is made for anyone to climb (a number of old people and kids were climbing it when I went up) so it's not hard to navigate, but I'd still recommend going with a friend. I've heard stories of a number of people who got separated ending up on the wrong side of the mountain on descent- there are a few paths on the way down that lead to different prefectures.
Hope this helps! Good luck and enjoy your visit to Japan.